A Weekend on the Norfolk Coast
Sea, Sand, and Saltmarsh in a Hidden Corner of England
The North Norfolk coast is only a couple of hours from London. But you can still get lost in the salt marshes, and drink in a flint-walled village pub.
The great attraction of North Norfolk is its variety. There are charming small villages, and garish seaside towns; lonely salt marshes and crowded sandy beaches; fine seafood restaurants and little whelk and cockle stalls.
Start off to the west with a visit to the Burnhams. There were originally seven villages – Burnham Deepdale, Norton, Overy, Sutton, Thorpe, Ulph, and Westgate. Everywhere you look you’ll find flint walled cottages and the fine medieval churches for which Norfolk is famous. Burnham Thorpe was the birthplace of Lord Nelson, the hero of Trafalgar, who is commemorated in the local pub’s name; Burnham Deepdale is not far from the Roman fort of Branodunum. These sleepy villages might not show it, but the Norfolk coast is full of history.
Fine Country Houses or Sandy Beaches? Your Choice!
Make your way to Holkham where you’ll find two competing attractions – a fine Palladian country house, Holkham Hall, and the pine-covered sand dunes which shelter a naturist beach as well as the rare natterjack toad. You can tell a natterjack from the jaunty yellow stripe down his back.
From here you can walk along the coast to Wells, a delightful small town with a miniature harbour. Sandbanks stretch far into the sea – be careful of the tide if you want to explore them. Explore the back streets of the town and you’ll see fine Georgian and Victorian houses, and the Buttlands – a quiet green, originally the site of archery practice at the "butts" or targets.
An Ancient Shrine Serves Three Communities of Faith
Take the Wells & Walsingham light railway to visit one of England’s great medieval pilgrim sites at Walsingham. Although much of the great priory was destroyed in the Reformation, you can still walk in the grounds and see the impressive ruins of the western arch. The new Anglican shrine was created in the 1930s and though its architecture is modern, the ‘Holy House’ with its statue of the Virgin Mary retains its mystery. If you have time, walk the ‘holy mile’ to Houghton St Giles and visit the separate Catholic shrine at the Slipper Chapel. As you pass the old railway station, note the little onion dome on top – it’s now the Greek Orthodox Chapel of St Seraphim. Walsingham is truly ecumenical!
Further along the Norfolk coast are the Stiffkey marshes and Blakeney Point, two different landscapes – one muddy saltmarsh, one shingle bank – noted for their bird populations. Blakeney church has an interesting second tower, in which a light was displayed for sailors out at sea; it’s dedicated to St Nicholas, patron saint of sailors, like many churches along this coast.
From Sheringham, you have an opportunity to take the North Norfolk Railway inland to the little market town of Holt, or further along the coast to Weybourne. But for a taste of something a bit different, head for Cromer – a tiny fishing village that grew to become a Victorian seaside town. The town is proud of its outstanding contribution to the Royal National Lifeboat Institution - famous coxwain Henry Blogg saved 873 lives on 387 launches. You can visit the Henry Blogg museum, or – if you book in advance – take a tour of the new lifeboat station at the end of the fine pier.
Traditional Fish and Chips - Fresh from the Sea
You can see the fine Perpendicular tower of Cromer church from far away – it dominates the town, and is a useful landmark for mariners. Once you’ve had enough culture, it’s time for a traditional Norfolk seaside meal: fish and chips – or maybe a fresh Cromer crab. A couple of the little fishermen’s houses in the centre of town still have a blackboard outside showing if crab’s been brought in that morning – though much of the catch goes to a local firm that supplies restaurants and supermarkets.
