Dramatic Dunstanburgh Castle

Northumberland's Largest Mediaeval Ruins Guard a Wild Coastline

Oct 11, 2008 Anthony Toole

In a county noted for its castles, Dunstanburgh occupies a site so impressive that it was painted several times by Turner.

It stands on top of a high, wave-battered cliff of black dolerite, part of the Great Whin Sill, a volcanic layer that broke through the bedrock of carboniferous limestone nearly 300 million years ago. Other outcrops of the same rock can be seen throughout north-east England, at High Force in Teesdale, beneath Hadrian’s Wall and in the Farne Islands. The situation of the castle gives it command of the rocky coastline to the south and the sandy sweep of Embleton and Beadnell bays to the north.

Approaches

The castle is managed by English Heritage, on behalf of the National Trust. It is best approached by means of a mile’s gentle, and very pleasant walk along the coast from the fishing village of Craster, to the south. Craster is famous for its kippers, which are still smoked in the traditional way in a smokehouse in the village. The footpath is grassy, but it follows a line of rocky inlets and barnacle-encrusted pools that are alive with whelks, sea anemones, periwinkles and hermit crabs.

History

Though there is evidence that the site was occupied in prehistoric times, the castle’s construction was begun in 1313 AD, by Thomas Plantagenet, second Earl of Lancaster and cousin to King Edward II. Thomas became involved in the political intrigues of the 14th century, and was largely responsible for the murder of Piers Gaveston, first Earl of Cornwall, who was a favourite of the king. In 1322, Edward achieved revenge by having Thomas executed. The castle was forfeit to the crown, and passed to John of Gaunt in the 1380s. It was held by the forces of the House of Lancaster during the Wars of the Roses, though it was twice besieged and taken by the Yorkists. Following the wars, the castle had little strategic importance, and fell into disuse and ruin.

Ghostly Legend

According to a 16th century tale, a knight, who became known as Sir Guy the Seeker, sought refuge from a storm in the ruins of Dunstanburgh. There, he witnessed an ugly apparition, which led him to a hidden chamber in the grounds, in which lay a beautiful sleeping maiden. In order to awaken and claim this beauty, he was offered a challenge, which he failed, with the result that his ghost has haunted the ruins ever since, in search for his lost love.

Castle Point

The hill on which the castle stands juts into the sea as a tall headland, Castle Point. In spring, the cliff is occupied by hundreds of fulmars, shags, cormorants and the largest kittiwake colony in the north-east of England.

The Mere

Below and to the west of the hill lies a pond surrounded by reed beds. This is Known as The Mere. It was created by flooding the surrounding fields during the 14th century, and acted partly as a moat. In periods of prolonged heavy rainfall, the area again becomes flooded.

Greymare Rock

A short distance north of the castle, and easily visible from its northern walls, is the Greymare Rock. Comprising a series of limestone beds, twisted by the heat and pressure during the formation of the Whin Sill, this rises like a smooth petrified wave over the shoreline boulders.

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