Lindisfarne Priory and Castle, Northumberland
Historic Structures on the Island of English Christianity's Birth
Oct 11, 2009
Many of these come, like the early Celtic saints, to experience the tranquility of deserted beaches. Others wish to enjoy the floral spectacle of the sand dunes or share the company of rare migrant or resident birds. Most, however, head for the village, clustered round the ruins of the medieval priory, on the south-west corner of the island.
History of Lindisfarne’s Monasteries
The earliest monastery on Lindisfarne was founded by St Aidan in 635 AD, becoming one of the great centres of learning and pilgrimage in the north of England. The Lindisfarne Gospels, an illuminated Latin manuscript created during the late 7th and early 8th centuries, is one of the finest examples of the Celtic-Saxon art that flowered at this time.
The island’s isolation left it exposed to attack from Viking raiders, so its early history was a troubled one. In the 11th century, the monastic community was re-established, and the priory built. This thrived for 500 years, before being closed by Henry VIII in 1537. Thereafter, it was used, for a time, as a store for military supplies. In 1630, the lead was removed from the roof, and the priory fell into ruin. It is now preserved by English Heritage.
Lindisfarne Priory and Museum
One enters the priory via the western door. Ahead are the high walls of the church, constructed of sturdy sandstone pillars supporting characteristic Norman arches. At its eastern end is a semi-circular foundation, which is believed to cover the first burial place of St Cuthbert. Alongside this is the base of a Saxon cross, the cross itself having been broken up for use in the foundations.
The priory covers an area of around an acre. The largest portion of this, the southern part, consists of low walls and foundations of what were once the cloisters, kitchens, store rooms and guest quarters.
A museum stands adjacent to the priory. It houses examples of stones carved with Celtic and Saxon patterns, and depicts the history of the priory from its foundation by Aidan, through the Saxon, Viking and Norman eras, the Scottish Border wars and the Dissolution of the Monasteries. It also traces some of the histories of the more important Kings of Northumbria.
Lindisfarne Mead and the Honeymoon
One legacy of the monks is Lindisfarne mead, a fortified wine, flavoured with herbs and honey, which is still brewed and sold in the village. The Vikings encouraged newly-weds to drink mead for a month after the wedding, believing it increased fertility. This period thus became known as the honeymoon.
Lindisfarne Castle
Lindisfarne Castle is small by the standards of most castles, but its position on top of a dolerite crag gives it an aspect of total impregnability. Originally built in the 16th century as a Tudor fort, it was re-designed in 1903, by Sir Edwin Lutyens, as a home for Edward Hudson. It is now owned by the National Trust.
Lindisfarne Castle Lower Floor
A door at the top of a ramp to the south leads to a stone staircase, which brings one up to a balcony on the eastern side, from which one enters the castle itself. The Entrance Hall was originally two rooms separated by a corridor. To the right is a mural, dating from 1913, which incorporates a wind direction indicator linked to a weather vane on the roof. The hall also contains an 1877 painting, by John Moore, depicting the castle and priory by moonlight.
The kitchen, to the side, contains a large, cast iron stove, a pottery cabinet and shelves of copper utensils. In the dining room is a bread oven and an oval table designed for the room by Lutyens. The walls of the Ship Room extend into the natural dolerite rock, a section of which can be seen in the south-west corner. Hanging from the ceiling is a meticulously detailed replica of a Dutch sailing ship, the Henrietta, which gives the room its name.
Lindisfarne Castle Upper Floor
Rising to the upper floor, one arrives at the Long Gallery, the walls of which are decorated with woodcut prints of 18th century hunting scenes. Here and elsewhere, the herring-bone pattern of the floor is made from bricks brought here as ballast in ships. Leading off from the gallery are six bedrooms.
The gallery leads out onto the Upper Battery, which commands a tremendous view over the island, the Northumbrian coast to the south, and across to the distant Cheviot Hills. A short distance to the north is the castle’s walled garden, created between 1906 and 1912 by Gertrude Jekyll.
Lindisfarne Limekilns
Beneath and to the east of the castle are a set of six limekilns that are among the largest and best preserved in Northumberland. They were built in 1860 and manufactured lime from limestone quarried in the north of the island.
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