Literary Pubs in Oxford
A Pubcrawl Beneath the Dreaming Spires
Writing and boozing have been intertwined for centuries, from the Greek poet Aristophanes, who used “water-drinker” as an insult, to A. E. Housman, who declared that a poet should drink a pint of beer at lunchtime and go for a long walk to let his verses brew. Oxford, with its profusion of literary history, and conveniently spaced hostleries, provides ideal opportunities for literate quaffing, with short walks in between in case the muse should stir.
The Mitre
At the corner of Turl Street and High Street stands The Mitre, with its imposing symbol hanging over the heads of passers-by. The clerical hat in question probably comes from the crest of nearby Lincoln College, where it represents one of the founders. The Mitre has been quenching thirst since 1261, during which time it has hosted Oscar Wilde and the thespian couple of Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor. These days it is part of the Beefeater chain, so it serves pretty standard pub food and big-brand beers – don’t try asking for a cup of canary or a pint of sack. The building itself is listed, and has a pleasantly rambling feel, with plenty of little snuggeries and nooks, if you don’t mind the rather bland Beefeater decor.
The Turf
The Turf Tavern, hidden from the street, can be found either off Bath Place or down two tiny alleyways leading off Catte Street, just under the bridge. The word “Turf” is chalked on one of the bricks by the first alley, which is about as far as its advertising strategy goes – El Dorado was easier to drop into on a Friday night. It is well worth a little orienteering, however, especially if you’re fond of real ales. The Turf usually has about eight ales on tap at once, which are changed regularly. Always available is the heavyweight cider called Old Rosie – a lovely taste, and at 7.2% it has a bit of a kick. Drinkers can either sit inside (the low ceilings and beams make standing at the bar something of an extreme sport) or out in one of the two yards, where quizzes, acoustic nights and barbecues are held in season. The pub’s literary credentials were established by Thomas Hardy, who used to drink here, and used it as a setting in his Victorian gloom-fest Jude the Obscure.
The Lamb and Flag
To the north, off St. Giles, sits the Lamb and Flag. Its rather unusual name is borrowed from the crest of St. John’s College (which owns the pub), as a lamb carrying a flag was used as an emblem of the Evangelist. Its cellars were rumoured to have been used by secrets Catholics during the reign of James I. The pub claims Thomas Hardy as an habitué (Jude the Obscure again), and some of the Inklings, a group of writers which gathered around C.S. Lewis and J.R.R. Tolkien. (The Inklings regular watering-hole was the Eagle and Child opposite, however, where they held court on Tuesday mornings in the 1940s.) The Old Peculiar ale they serve is particularly rewarding and subtle, which is more than can be said for Jude the Obscure.
Of course, Oxford has been the stomping ground of so many writers over the years that it must be almost impossible to have a drink in an Oxford pub without, even unknowingly, tracing the steps of some past author. If only one could find out where Dr. Seuss used to tope...
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