The Historic Port of Rye
Ancient Town in Sussex, England
Built on a rock, it means traffic has had to by-pass the town thus preserving it well. Once almost completely surrounded by the sea, Rye was important in the time of Alfred the Great, providing ships and men for the navy. In the 13th and 14th centuries, however, it was frequently attacked by the French and was eventually burnt to the ground in 1377. The fascinating and atmospheric town of the present day is basically the one that grew from the ashes of the old, with 16th century timbered houses and winding cobbled streets.
Hawkhurst Gang of Smugglers in the Mermaid Inn
One of the most famous landmarks in Rye is theMermaid Inn, appropriately situated on Mermaid Street. This is the same cobbled street that French raiders walked on in the 14th century. The Mermaid Inn was first built in 1156, then rebuilt after the fire in 1420, becoming a favourite drinking den of smugglers in the 18th century. According to local legend, the notorious Hawkhurst gang could often be seen sitting at its windows with loaded pistols close to hand. One of the prettiest ancient buildings in Rye, with its ivy-clad black and white timbered facade, it has an authentic old-world atmosphere in the low-ceilinged restaurant.
Murder in Rye Exhibited at the Town Hall
The town hall, built in 1743, holds evidence of murder in Rye. Among the many exhibits is the gruesome gibbet cage which contains the skull of John Breads the Butcher. This unfortunate man was fined by the Mayor, James Lamb, in 1737 for selling short weight. Dislike of the mayor grew into a murderous hatred and Breads plotted to kill Lamb. However Breads killed Lamb’s brother-in-law by mistake. After being imprisoned and shackled in the prison for sixty-seven days, he was hanged and hung out on Gibbets Marsh to rot. For anyone interested in the full story, there is a short booklet written by Kenneth Clark, Murder by Mistake, available to buy in the town.
Ypres Tower, one of Rye's oldest buildings
One of the town’s oldest buildings is Ypres Tower, which was built by order of Henry III to protect Rye against the French in 1250. After the French attack of 1377, the tower was used by the local Corporation until 1430. It was then sold to John de Ypres, before being bought back in 1518 to be used as a prison until 1865. Now partly a museum, it is an impressive sight. The friendly curator added his own touches of atmosphere by explaining it was once the town morgue and pointing out blood spots on the floor.
The Medieval Landgate
Another ancient building is the Landgate. A plaque on the wall confirms that the medieval gateway was built in 1329 by Edward 111 to fortify the town. This was the only means of entry to the town when Rye was surrounded on three sides by the sea. Evidently the chamber above the gateway, between the two forty foot towers, once housed the mechanism that operated the drawbridge over the town ditch. Just before the entrance to the gateway was one of the best little second-hand book shops in the town.
St Mary’s Church and Clock
St Mary’s Church, which dates from 1150, sits at the highest point of Rye. The church largely survived the French invasion, although the church bells and other valuables were stolen. A year later, a raiding party from Rye and nearby Winchelsea recovered the bells and they rang once more.
An impressive part of the church is the clock which is supposed to be the oldest working clock of its kind in the country. It was replaced in the 1560s and still uses most of its original working parts. On each side of the clock face are the quarter boys, striking quarter hours but not the actual hours. In the centre are the words, ‘For our time is a very shadow that passeth away.’ There are some legends and stories attached to the clock which can be read in the small leaflet produced by Kenneth Clark outlining the clock’s history.
Cobbled Streets through the History of Rye
In a place that has so much of historical interest, it is easy to forget about the excellent shops and restaurants. Then there are the little cobbled lanes that hide all manner of antique shops and interesting goods, while the fourteenth century shopping centre is a pleasure to visit. But it is the old buildings, the sense of history and fascinating stories that are an integral part of Rye and which continue to attract many visitors.
The official tourist and local business website for Rye gives details of where to stay.
Mermaid Inn
|
Ypres Tower
|
What do you think about this article?
More in Travel
Latest Articles