Afternoon tea is a splendid English tradition. The English might not all stop work each day for what French friends call ‘le five o’clock tea’, but they do still take our tea very seriously. And fortunately there are many fine tea rooms where visitors can experience the English ‘tea ceremony’ for themselves.
Tea in the Palm Court at the Ritz hotel in London is still many people’s idea of heaven. But the more discerning tea-lover ought to head for the Dorchester instead and take afternoon tea in the Promenade. A traditional cream tea (tea, scones, jam, and cream) is available, or finger sandwiches. The High Tea served from 430 to 630 in the evening is truly decadent – really a pre-theatre meal rather than just a cup of tea. Booking is essential to avoid missing out on this treat; and it’s not cheap. But then, you wouldn't expect anything at this classy hotel to come cheap, would you?
The Bramah Tea and Coffee Museum, near London Bridge Station, is close to the docks where tea was imported in the nineteenth century. Unless you’re very interested in industrial history, you could skip the museum; but the tea rooms serve a very decent cream tea, or afternoon set tea with cucumber sandwiches, for rather less than the Dorchester.
The oldest tea room in the West
A more central stop is the Twinings Tea Shop in the Strand. You’ll spot it easily by the two little figures of Chinese men over the door. This is a historic place – it was the first tea room in the West, and has been here since the eighteenth century. You won't get a cup of tea here, but you can buy tea, coffee, tea pots, mugs, and cakes – everything you need to make your own afternoon tea when you get home. And there’s a small museum, showing the history of the tea trade and the Twinings family, together with some fine and unusual tea caddies.
Or try Teasmith in Spitalfields for a more contemporary approach with a Japanese touch. Tea tasting classes are offered in this minimalist designer bar, and if you like a particular blend you can buy the leaf tea to take away.
Great tea shops in Yorkshire and further north
Of course English tea is not the exclusive preserve of Londoners. Yorkshiremen have a particularly fine tea tradition, best seen in the Bett’s Cafe tea rooms in Harrogate, York, Northallerton and Ilkley. Betty’s was actually started by a Swiss confectioner, Frederick Belmont – as you can tell if you try the cakes and pastries, all of which are made on the premises. Ilkley is a particularly fine branch with its stained glass windows – go for a hike on the moors first, then make your way back into town for a nice cup of tea.
Some English tea rooms are redolent of the moneyed ease of the 1920s – and have prices to match. You couldn't say that of Rumbletums Old English Tea Rooms, off Silver Street in Durham. Here, you’ll get your tea and freshly baked scones in a homely room crowded with antiques and paintings – and at a bargain price, too.
Heading out west? Try Sally Lunn’s, in Bath. The original kitchen goes back three hundred years, but the house is even older, dating from 1483. You can taste the original Sally Lunn bun – a light, rather sweet roll with a choice of savoury or sweet toppings.
Peacocks - official top tea place!
But the best of all afternoon teas can be enjoyed at Peacocks Tea Rooms in the little cathedral city of Ely. That’s official – it won the Tea Guild’s ‘Top Tea Place’ this year. Flavoured tea mixes include ‘deux amours’ with chocolate and almond, and a lavender and honey tea, as well as Orange Blossom Special. And of course, you’ll get freshly made scones, with raspberry, strawberry or gooseberry jam. What could be nicer?
