Totnes, Devon - Historic Town - Modern Outlook

Attractive Medieval Town on the River Dart, First Transition Town

© Richard Mudhar

Aug 21, 2008
Church viewed from Totnes Castle, Richard Mudhar
Totnes has a well-preserved Elizabethan centre, overlooked by a Norman castle. It has a strong alternative and green community, pioneering many eco-initiatives.

Totnes is a compact town set at the tidal limits of the River Dart. The strong alternative tradition means that the high street is a kaleidoscope of small shops, rather than the dreary ranks of big-name chains that mar many English market towns.

The lovely ancient buildings give the town a very olde-worlde air, but this is achieved with authentic architecture sensitively looked after – the town is proud to boast that it has more listed buildings per head of population than any other town in England. Totnes Museum finds a home in an Elizabethan building and on Tuesdays between May and September some of the traders around the Market Square dress in Elizabethan costumes.

Here the visitor can sample local delicacies and there are many local greengrocers and butchers offering locally sourced produce. The alternative scene means there are many shops offering bohemian clothing and new-age products and services. Totnes is the nearest town to Schumacher College which runs a number of sustainable living courses.

Transition Town Totnes

Totnes was receptive to the Transition Town idea, becoming the first English town to become a Transition Town. The idea of the Transition Town movement is to improve the localisation of skills and food production, aiming to make the population better prepared to rise to the challenges of Peak Oil and Climate Change/carbon reduction.

Norman Castle

The Norman Castle at the top of the hill is an English Heritage site but is well worth a visit for the excellent view of the surrounding countryside. There is a £2.50 charge (2008) to get into the castle, and a set of stairs takes sightseers to the castellated walkway at the top. The catsle is closed between November and April.

Guildhall

The Guildhall was built in 1553 and still houses the town council. It is an the back of the church of St Mary in a very quaint alleyway.

Church of St Mary

This impressive church stands on the High Street. It is built of red Devonian sandstone, giving it a lovely rich colour.

Traffic Issues

Despite car parking charges that verge on the punitive, Totnes does have a problem with cars. The main street is officially only open to vehicle traffic for access only, and is at least set one-way. The access regulation is disregarded and cars pass up the hill, which takes something away from the visitors experience since the main street is narrow, and the pedestrian footpath sometimes narrows alarmingly. Pedestrianising the main street would bring welcome relief from the through traffic flouting the regulations.

Visitors arriving by car should note that in addition to the pay-and-display charges being excessive, at about 90p for an hour, the machines neither give change nor account for overpayment by giving the extra time, and the display of tickets seems to be patrolled frequently.

Getting there

Totnes is five miles from the A38, which is the continuation of the M5 motorway after Exeter. The town is roughly halfway between Exeter and Plymouth.

By rail the nearest station is Totnes.

Location

on google maps

GPS Location

50.43N 3.68W

References

English Heritage on Totnes Castle (includes opening times and charges)

Transition town Totnes website


The copyright of the article Totnes, Devon - Historic Town - Modern Outlook in England Travel is owned by Richard Mudhar. Permission to republish Totnes, Devon - Historic Town - Modern Outlook in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.


Totnes Norman castle, Richard Mudhar
Eastgate, High Street, Richard Mudhar
Church of St Mary, Richard Mudhar
the car problem..., Richard Mudhar
Totnes Guildhall, Richard Mudhar


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