Explore North Yorkshire's Whitby
Discover Whitby's Lively Past and Explore the North Yorkshire Coast
Apr 29, 2008
The Christian festival of Easter and the distinctly unchristian Dracula would appear to have little in common. However, the pretty and rugged town of Whitby unites the two. A synod in Whitby Abbey in the 600’s set the date of Easter, and over 1200 years later, author Bram Stoker was inspired by Whitby. With the ruined Abbey towering over the cliffs, Stoker created Dracula and the shipwreck that brought the Count alive.
Whitby Abbey
Today, the visitor faces the challenge of 199 steep steps leading from Whitby town up to the preserved ruins of Whitby Abbey. On the way to the Abbey, they pass through the fascinating graveyard of St Mary’s. The sea breezes are so strong, older gravestones have deep pits gouged out of the sandstone. Pity the poor pallbearers from Victorian times having to carry the coffin up those steps.
The Abbey is worth touring, although the reformation reduced it to open air ruins. Stand awhile in the centre of this historic building to get an image of how grand and important Whitby Abbey once was.
The History of Whitby
Whitby Town was founded along two steep valley sides, where the River Esk eroded the soft rock cliffs of the coast. The Abbey stands on top of the cliffs. While the Abbey thrived in the early years after the departure of the Romans, Danish invaders soon ransacked Whitby and made the valley their home for over two centuries.
In Victorian times Jet was mined in the Whitby region; the black stone favoured by the Victorians in jewellery to commemorate their dead. Today, many of the shops in the town still sell Whitby jet, and the town is a favourite haunt of those who pursue a Goth or Emo lifestyle.
The other main industry of Whitby was fishing and although much reduced in scale, fishing boats still bring their catch into the small and busy harbour. Catch the visually stunning lobster pots stacked alongside the harbour and the boats in port. A huge whalebone arch still proudly stands near the pier, a memory from the whaling fleet that was based here.
Captain Cook, the British explorer of Australia, cemented the Whitby seafaring tradition when he set sail from Whitby in the Endeavor. Although your trip may not take you quite so far, the brave can hire a boat for a deep sea-fishing trip. Be warned; the North Sea can be cold and choppy.
Whitby Today
Whitby is divided into the east and west cliff areas. The West is the more modern, mostly dating from the 1700-1800’s. While the area has its full share of grand and charming houses now turned into hotels and guesthouses, the narrow winding cobbled streets of the east cliff have far more charm.
This is a town of tiny individual shops, and pubs with fantastic views across the harbour. Places to stay on the east side include the charmingly furnished and reasonably priced Shepherd’s Purse (in a quiet courtyard behind the Shepherd’s Purse whole food and dress shop), and the old original bar and hotel, the White Horse and Griffin, with its very good dining room. For a drink, try the Duke of York, a public house frequented by Bram Stoker, with a view to rival any on the British east coast.
Near Whitby
The region isn’t only about Whitby. Take a 5-mile hike down the coast and enjoy stunning views over the cliff tops, before visiting the small cove of Robin Hood’s Bay. This was originally a smugglers cove and small fishing village and it has lost none of its charm. A similar distance north will take you to Runswick Bay, and past the former Alum mines. This mined substance was mixed with stale urine to fix dye colourings in fabric. It is almost unbelievable today to think that these deserted cliffs were once home to busy and thriving industries. Today, the birds have the cliffs almost to themselves.
Although Whitby is only a small town, its history means that a visit is never dull. Today’s main industry of tourism will give life to this most adaptable of old towns for many years to come.
